My Cycling Expedition on Jan-04-2002 

Goal : To visit some places like Forests, Mountains, Villages in some parts of Kerala and to promote importance of these for our Sustainable Future. Cycling this far was a challenge too. So it was also interesting and a lasting experience.. 

Route : 
Day-1 * Starting from Trivandrum to Changanassery/Kottayam (A halt here to rest).

Day-2 & 3 * Changannassery to Ernakulam [via Alleppey or Allapuzha route] (Rest here for a day and see places like 'Vega Land' Theme park in 'Kakannad').

Day-4 & 5 * Ernakulam to Munnar (halt here for couple of days to see places like " Eravikulam National park" in 'Rajamalai' hills).

Day-6 & 7 * Munnar to Thekkady (or Kumily) via Devikulam, Kallar, Vandamettu (stay here for a day to visit Wild Life Santuary at 'Periyar National Park' in Thekkady.

Day-8 & 9 * Thekkady to Pathanamthitta via Peermade, Ranni (rest here for couple of days to see the villages, hills, forests etc here).

Day-10 * Pathanamthitta to Tenmalai via Punalur (stay for a day to see Eco Tourism park, Palarruvi waterfalls in AryanKavu). Then return back to Trivandrum from Tenmalai via Kulathupuzha, Palod, Nedumangad.

Total about 10 days cycle tour and covered about 850 KM or so.. My budget was Rs.3000/- (ie 150 for food and 150 for lodging so Rs.300 for each day). 

My journey :

04-Jan2002 : I started from Trivandrum (from my house at Vettamukku) at about 12.00 am. I cycled at a slow pace to get the hang of it.. I rested for about 5-10 mins at some places like Kollam (Quilon), Pathanamthitta and reached Changannassery at about 11.20 pm or so, after pedaling for nearly 12 hrs or so !. I stayed here at hotel "Kavalam" (a decent hotel in the city, for a single bed room I had to pay Rs. 210/-). I had my dinner outside and went to bed for a deep/cool sleep.. I was happy to know that my body was fit enough to cycle about 12 hrs (or more, if required) a day..! So I was sure that I could pedal this long for most of the days..

05-Jan-2002 : Vacated hotel "Kavalam" at about 7.45 am. My plan was to reach Ernakulam "Vega Land" Theme park in 'Kakannad' (about 125 KM from Changannassery). So from Changannassery I took a byroad that goes to Alleppey or Allapuzha. I had to cycle about 2 hrs on the bypass road to reach Alleppey (ie 24 km from Changannassery). On the way (the bypass road) I could see the backwaters/bridges, houses on river banks, water rafts carrying cars and auto etc.. For which Allapuzha is famous for. I could see a lot of cultivated land on both sides of the road and was great joy to ride as the road too was quite good..

At about 2.00 pm I reached Ernakulam. I rested and took cool drinks at many shops as it was very hot here and I proceeded towards 'Kakannad' at a very slow pace.. There is a junction called 'Pallarivattom' from where to take a right turn for go to 'Kakannad' (now Vegaland is about 12 KM or so). I had to skip my lunch as I was very much interested & determined to reach "Vega Land" Theme park. At about 4.00 pm I reached 'Kakannad'. Its a hilly area with some small bushy grounds. 

I wanted to stay in a hotel closest to Vegaland Park.. So I found one called "Arya Hotel" (its about 6 KM or so outside Vegaland Park. I got a double bed room for about Rs. 200/-. I was very much tired by now and hungry too !. So I too bath and relaxed for about an hour or so then went out and had some Parotta with Chicken curry, fruit juice and 'Sharja Shake' (a sort of milk with fruit shake..). Went back to my room and slept till 8.00 pm.

Then got up about an hour or so and just chatted with the hotel manager who was in the lobby and then went to a small hotel near by and had some chicken fry. Then a Sharja Shake again ! and just strolled for 20 mins or so.. After getting some fresh air I went back to the hotel to sleep for the night.. My next day's plan was to go to "Vega Land" Theme park.

06-Jan2002 : I woke up at about 8.00 am and had my breakfast out side (near this  hotel), as the restaurant in the hotel was not open yet.. Then at 9.00 am I started to cycle towards 'Vega Land Park'. On the way I could see some small villages and farms.. There were some up-hills too. I came across a small bridge and it was a nice view of 'Kakannad' village from here. I stopped my bicycle and wanted to take a snap of me and 'green runner'.. So waited for someone to come.., then I saw a villager cycling towards me.. I stopped him and requested him to take my photo.. He was a poor worker, didn't know how to handle a camera. So I showed him how.. He took my photo (with great respect for my camera and me.. !). I just asked his name and he said 'Mohan'. We then sat on the bridge and talked about his village and the VegaLand Park.. He said that he didn't know much about the Park as he had never went there (may be because the ticket charge was too much for this poor villager to afford or he didn't appreciate what it had to offer..). He then told me something about his village.. He thought Kakannad was soon changing into a more of a city than a village because of the fast changes going around his village and Vegaland.. ie More people were moving towards Tourism business from agriculture.. And most farmers started to sell their land (at high prices for Tourism people/entrepreneurs) and some started to setup shops, hotels etc for this. On the whole Mohan thought these changes would adversely affect his village and the natural & cultural beauty of his village would be lost for ever !. He thought even the agricultural land would diminish and as a result his job would be doubtful (he was a laborer and worked on farmlands on daily wages). I could agree with him. Even though he only had minimal education (8 standard). He was able to understand a little English and was able to understand what was written on the board on my cycle.. ie "Alternative Transportation, Cycle is 'Green', Cycling for a Sustainable Future". I was amazed at this, because he did understand the importance of my cycling tour and the message/goal it carried.. and he understood how our civilization/people should give importance on "Sustainable Development" !.. We spoke for about half an hour but it seemed to me as if it was longer.. And then we departed wishing each other best of lucks for each other's journey.. 

Now it was about 9.50 am and Vegaland would open at 11.00 am. I got on to my cycle and started to pedal towards Vegaland. In about half an hour I reached there and I saw some security guards at the gate who asked me to go inside.. Some guards were curious about my cycle and the board. So they asked more about my cycling.. I explained them and they were amazed that I reached 'Ernakulam' in just 23 hrs or so (spread over two days..). They appreciated my efforts.. After all they have seen very few people arriving at Vegaland on an cycle !. I liked the landscape inside vegaland, It was very green and some good structures/statues/art were all around. 

I waited in the restaurant (inside Vegaland) and had some snacks, milk and water. Then at about 11.00 am the ticket counter opened and I got my tickets (at Rs.250. Ticket charge on Sunday was a little more than usual days..). For about an hour I walked inside the park and observed what people were doing and the fun it had to offer.. Then one by one I tried all the games like 'water slides, 'dragon Coaster', Train that goes inside a cave (I forgot the name) etc etc.. I just strolled around in the afternoon and had my lunch from a restaurant within the park. I had kept my camera, slippers, bag and dress inside the locker room.. I rested and then in the evening again I did some stuff like 'wave pool', 'musical fountain' etc. On the whole I liked the 'Dragon Coaster', 'Wave pool', 'Trains' and 'Musical Fountain'. And to watch all the people around... 

In the evening at about 6.30 pm I turned back towards my hotel. And I reached my hotel at about 7.15 pm. It had been a good day for me.. ie a bit of cool cycling, Fun' N' Games, Talking to villagers etc..

07-Jan2002 : Vacated my hotel at Kakannad (Ernakulam) and my idea was to go to 'Munnar' now. At about 6.00 am I started to cycle.. The easiest route was via Vegaland (instead of going back to the highway..(NH)). This road goes via VegaLand towards 'Kodamangalam' (which is about 65 KM from here and 81 KM away from Munnar). After cycling for about 11 KM or so I reached a small junction after VegaLand called 'Pallikkara'. Then asked a villager to tell me the way towards "Perumbavoor" (its this road that leads towards "Kothamangalam"). He told me to take the right turn.. And then again took a left turn after going about 500 mts or so (this is a small road that goes to Perumbavoor, its very easy to miss it..). After pedaling for about 16 KM I reached "Perumbavoor". It was a small city with many shops. Then I reached 'Kothamangalam' at about 9.40 am. It took me about 3.5 hrs to pedal about 55 KM. Now Munnar was only 81 KM away from here.

Click on the picture to see the entire map of Kerala State

On the way near 'Kodamangalam' I saw a 'Paravan' (a word in Malayalam language that means 'coconut tree' climber),  and I could get some fresh 'Toddy' (a natural alcoholic drink from coconut tree). I got one bottle for about Rs. 20/- (was OK because it was good and fresh from the trees !). If you want to taste some good/real 'Toddy' (like I did..) then this is a good place to get it.. The more you keep the 'Toddy' the more it gets fermented and sour.. So its better to have it fresh :-)

I reached 'Cheevappara' waterfalls at about 1.30 pm. This was the first waterfalls on route to Munnar. I rested for few minutes here and did some deep and relaxed breathing exercises to rejuvenate my mind, muscles and brain.. About 10-14 KM before Addimali I had a great cycle ride [ie, many down hills/slopes and natural beauty !]. Then after pedaling for about less than two hrs I reached "Addimali" at about 3.15 pm. This is a small town with some good shops.. The is the only town before Munnar.. If you don't get something at Munnar then people come to 'Adamali' to get it.. I had my lunch here from a good hotel.. It was chicken beriyani, cool drinks, mango juice and lots of fresh water.. !. I always carry about 3 liters of water with me, So I got my bottles filled up. People outside the hotel were curious about my cycle and my big bag and a board on it ! (my cycle had five gears and I had fixed a new electronic bell/horn on it that sounded just great !). 

Now Munnar was just about 31 KM away. I expected to reach Munnar in 4-5 hrs because now the road would be mostly uphill and would take more time and strength.. Cycling the uphills to Munnar was a bit tough, but  I was greatly rewarded with some breathtaking natural beauty and fresh, crisp, cool air. It was like each new breath rejuvenated my body and soul. I felt so nice.. and was in no hurry to reach 'Munnar' city at all !. . So I lavishly cycled slowly and rested at a place called 'Karadi Pparra' (means 'Bear Rock'). It was a great view of Munnar from this site. This was a viewpoint from were the valleys and forests in Munnar were visible. There was a small make-shift shop here from were I had some good watermelon. Some tourists as well as local guys were impressed that I had cycled the whole way (without getting off my cycle !. At least up till here..). Then it was dark and 8 KM still to go and now the slopes were getting more tougher to pedal and the darkness limited my joyous journey.. I also did not have lights on my cycle. The roads were too narrow and the traffic a little rash.. So I decided to push my cycle. I walked slowly and now I felt the cool 'chil' of Munnar for which Munnar is famous for.. It was a cool walk in the dark !. At about 8.10 pm I reached 'Munnar' city.

Here I enquired about the cheapest accommodation/hotel/lodge or whatever here to stay.. and was pointed towards "MahaLakshmi" lodge. Here I got a small single bedroom for Rs. 107/- (tax included) !. I got room no: 8, which I think was the better one in this hotel.. It was all cracks in the bath room and the bedroom was just about 4X3 mts in area !. But for me that was just fine :-)

I had a bath in chilling tap water and rested on the bed. At 10.00 pm I went out and had dinner.. (it was some chicken noodles, sweet corn chicken soup and a chocolate shake). My stomach was now feeling great :-) I walked around 'old Munnar city' and wind was a bit chilling. I liked the cool climate (especially night times) of Munnar. I came back to the hotel and tucked into my bed. Sleep was just great.

08-Jan-2002 : This was my first day in Munnar and it was just perfect ie cool, sunny, beautiful. I woke up at about 7.00 am (wanted to sleep till 10.00 am, but had to move..). I went out and had breakfast. The restaurant that I went to was owned my a Malayali (Keralaite). So he was quite nice to me and we talked about things.. He really appreciated the fact that I was all alone in this trip and he told to all his hotel staff (who mostly were malayalies too) about my cycling tour. I had 5 boiled eggs, toast and milk for breakfast. Milk was really good, I was told that it was pure 'Munnar milk'.

After devouring a good breakfast I rested and at about 11.00 am I decided to move to 'Anai-Mudi' (Elephant Head) Mountain/Peak. But on the way when I enquired about it then I was told that it needed prior permission from the Forest officials (as it was recognized as the highest mountain in S.India..) and this permission would take at least 2-3 days !, which I did not have to spare. So I decided to drop the plan to climb 'Anai Mudi' Peak and started to cycle to "Erivikulam National Park" in Rajamalai hills. It was about 18 KM from Munnar city. On the way to Rajamalai hills I could see some wonderful mountains, streams, pastures and forests. About 1.5 km after Munnar on the way to Rajamalai there is a good place for camping.. If anyone of you plan to camp at Munnar then I suggest that this place would be just cool :-) It was near a river/stream with some great green grass around and the Rajamalai mountains were clearly visible from here. It was very beautiful !.

Road up to Rajamalai hills is quite steep and in some places difficult to pedal.. So I decided to walk and just looked around.. the view from top was just great and could also see some birds and mountain deer (for which Rajamalai & Erivikulam National Park is famous). The walk towards Erivikulam National Park was nice and I reached there in about 2 hrs or so. I had to keep my cycle down (near the second check post) and had to walk about 0.5 km to see the deer. They were all around !. So many of them !.. I took some photos and touched some of them. They seemed to like orange skin peals and eat them with great delight. They had grey coat and hones like goat. They didn't have any stripes or marks on their body. 

I rested there for few hrs and then got down.. While coming down hill my cycle's ball bearing (cone & balls) broke !... So terrible it was.. My cycle's back wheel started wobbling left and right and was very difficult to even roll it !. I was a bit tensed up and didn't know if I could find a good cycle shop at Munnar city.. Anyway I adjusted the wheel (to keep it in middle ie, aligned) and then very slowly came down hill all the way to Munnar city !. Here I was able to find a very small cycle shop. The chap was a Tamil and spoke to me in Tamil language.. I spoke in half Tamil and half Malayalam.. Infact he was going to repair a 'gear cycle' for the first time !. So he didn't know any of its gear system or fittings.. I was just praying that he would some how fix it..

He got the wheel out and looked into the gear system and saw that the whole cone & balls got crushed and was inside the gear bearings !. So he had to open the gear/sprocket system to replace it. He tried many methods to open it but he couldn't. As a last resort he tried to hit it with a hammer and a sharp rod, this cracked a part of the sprocket !. At last he said that you (I) will have to go to Ernakulam to get a new gear with bearing. To go to Ernakulam it would take about 4-5 hrs ! (one way).. So I told him to fix it some how.. We went to a lathe (Engineering workshop) and told the person there to open it some how.. So he fixed the wheel on a clamp and tightened the whole gear system with a device and then rotated the wheel.. It WORKED ! the gear opened up and then we were happy.. Yes, very happy.. The cycle mechanic was now able to change the cone & balls.. But he still had a tough time to set it all back up, especially the small ring/wire thread inside the gear (*which we call the 'clutch' of the gear..). Some how he fixed everything up in about 4 hrs or so !. He asked me just Rs.50/- I was so happy that I gave him Rs. 100/-. And told him that if you were not here then I would not been able to complete my tour in time.. !.

Now it  was about 5.45 pm. I thought that I would test my cycle so I decided to cycle to "B-Six Hotel" in 'Lechmi Estate'. Which was about 11 km away from Munnar city. The route was very nice and I just loved the greenery all around !. I reached Lechmi Estate at about 7.00 pm. It was dark but I wanted to visit one of my friend's house that was being newly constructed there.. I had to walk down (the road that goes left besides the 'B-Six hotel'. It was dark and the forest was getting soo noisy. I visited the house, I had to see it in torch light. Then I turned back to Munnar city. At 8.30 pm I reached Munnar city and I went to the same hotel to have my dinner.. This was not a very good day for me (problem with my cycle.. and not able to climb 'Anai Mudi' (Elephant Head) peak) but at the end I was quite happy because I had seen so many good places and had some good luck in bad times too :-)

Note : 
Most people in Munnar are Tamil and they are quite honest and good. Most of them encourage Tourism because it earns them some sort of livelihood in this small, beautiful place..

09-Jan-2002 :
Today morning I was feeling very energetic and healthy.. (may be due to fresh air of Munnar (that I had inhaled a lot during my cycling..). I was all ready to cycle towards 'Thekkady' (just over 100 KM or so from here). At 7.30 am I vacated 'MahaLekshmi' Lodge in Munnar city and then went to a small road side tea shop to have hot milk.. The milk was just wonderful (got to give the credit to Munnar cows who eat natural green grass !). There was a man in the shop who was curious about me. So he asked and I told him about my cycling tour and some of my experiences.. He was too a cycling freak when he was young.. So he was greatly appreciative of me.. He really gave me good encouragement and his wishes. He even offer to pay for my milk !. He insisted that he would pay (as a small help/gesture..), So I let him. 

Feeling so upbeat. I started to pedal towards "Devikulam" (about 10 KM away from Munnar), Its through Devikulam --> Poopparra that I would reach "Kumily" (Kumily is 4 km away from 'Thekkady' forest and its here the tourist stay, as there are no town or facilities to stay at 'Thekkady' forest. Not knowing that this cycling route would be my best experience.. I was curious about things to come/see.. The road was just wonderful, (initially some up hills near Tea estates) ; with green tea estates on either sides. I took my time to climb the steep roads towards Devikulam.. After an hour of cycling I came across some great stretch of road. Just before reaching Devikulam I could see a lake and wonderful forests on both sides. It was now  obvious that I had reached 'Devikulam'. At 8.50 am I reached a small bridge at Devikulam. And I rested for a while here. Here there was a small tea stall and I could, have breakfast here, which was 5 boiled eggs, couple to glass of milk (as usual). I filled up my water bottle with some hot water and also added some 'Electral salt' ie, Electrolytes in it (good for dehydration and muscle cramps..). I had to drink enough water to keep my muscle cramps under check and keep me healthy..

Note : 
Muscle cramps and dehydration are usual problems in cycling long distances.. So its always advisable to keep at least 2-3 liters of water with you (at all time) and few packs of 'Electral Salt' and chocolates or energy bars. Always drink water before you 'feel' the thirst.. ie You need to re-hydrate before you get dehydrated !!.

After the breakfast I now started to move towards 'Poopparra' (about 23 KM or so from here). On the way most of the Tea Estates that I could see were owned by 'TATA Tea'. The way from Devikulam towards 'Poopparra' was very good and one to the best sites I had ever seen.. Most of them were down hills and the slopes were so steep that I could even takeover cars and vans !. From the steep road above I could see the beautiful lagoon at Poopparra and I felt as if I was in paradise.. ! (not exaggerating..). The lake below was clear as it could be with greenery all around it. It was the best lake that I had seen in my life !.. By each minute I was getting closer to Poopparra (thanks to the great down hills and less traffic. Mountains were clearly visible from here. I reached there in about 3 hrs or so.. (ie 12.00 pm). Here I took some rest/snacks and some time in isolation (I and nature alone !). I could feel the relationship between us and mother nature.. Its she who gave life to us and its she who decides when to take it !.. (respect nature and you respect yourself..). I felt sad & angry when people try to put themselves over nature and ignore it. Some even don't care about what it has to offer !. If mother takes care of us then shouldn't we take care of her too ?. After being with nature for some time now, felt very good. If you too want to feel these strong bonds then you need to be alone in such places where your mind talks to nature and 'you' listen in silence.. !. I am not religious but I am quite spiritual.. ie religious acts are just some outside gimmicks; where spiritual is something within.. You discover yourself in silence and meditation with mother Nature.. 

After some rest to my mind and body I started to slowly cycle towards Thekkedy. I had half of the day left so I was cycling very slowly (absorbing what was all aground me !.). I still had about 82 KM to go !. I didn't know how far I had cycled (because I was lost in the beauty around me !). Soon it was evening..

After passing through some beautiful landscapes I reached 'Kumili' city at 7.10 pm (ie pedaling for about 7 hrs or so). Upon reaching Kumili, I saw a huge population of "Aiyappa Swamis" (people who do a pilgrimage to 'Shabarimala Temple -- a temple in S.India). This was the 'Shabarimala' season, so this small city was filled up with Swamis (people call them 'Aiyyappa' -- ie name of the god). Most of the shops/markets were oriented towards these Swamis and to make good profits out of this 'Shabarimala Season'.. Most of the Swamis were Tamil and they were easily distinguishable by their dress ie, Black or orange lungi, with no shirt or sometimes a cloth, sacred beads around their necks and didn't were a slipper or any type of footwear.. Some of them were walking for many miles (just to show/feel the spiritual force within them.. Its also a ritual to do so). Most of the shops were selling stuffs for these Swamis only (like sweets, Veg food, coconut (used in temple's fire..) etc).

I had a tough time to find a cheap hotel, as most of them were occupied (mostly by 'Aiyyappans' or Swamis). Then I got a good hotel ie "Muckumkal Tourist Home" (room no : 202, Rs 150/- for double bed room !). The manager was from Kerala (ie was a Malayalli) so that's why he was happy to give me a good room some how.. I parked my cycle safely inside the hotel garage and untied my bag from the cycle carrier and went to my room. I had a very refreshing bath ,as it was now getting more hot (than Munnar). Some rest and a brief nap and I was ready for dinner !. I walked around 'Kumili' city and it was a very small city just about 200 Mts either way !. So didn't have much to see. I went to a hotel and saw that only few of them had good "Non Veg" food and some hotel was not good or clean. So I took a chance and went to a big hotel.. (infact that was a big hotel which served not so good food !). I ordered for 'Chicken Fried Rice' and a plate of Chicken fry. I was served something that didn't taste like Fried Rice !.. (it was just a mix of cheap rice, scrambled eggs and some carrots..). I didn't have a nice time there. I had only the Fried chicken and didn't touch the Fried rice. The hotel cashier who was also a Malayali (ie one who belongs to Kerala state) didn't charge me for the chicken fried rice and I thanked him for not making me one of their 'business prey'. My stomach was only half full so I decided to see what else I could eat. I went to a juice shop and had some good orange juice. At Rs.10/- it was good enough. I got a packet of cherry (to have later in hotel) and went to the hotel. In my room there were mosquitoes, So I burned my incants. I eat the packet of cherry. And started to write my diary. I went to bed. This was one of the most beautiful cycling journey I ever had in my life !. I suggest that you too try to cycle through this route some time (ie at least from Munnar to Kumili), Trust me its worth it !. Hoping to see a similar day tomorrow, I said 'goodbye' and slept peacefully..

10-Jan-2002 :
I woke up at 6.40 am and at about 7.30 was ready with my snack pack, trekking shoes and camera for some Trekking at Thekkedy's wild life reserve forest.. I had breakfast at a small hotel and when I asked for eggs and milk then I was told to sit in an family room, so no one could see me eat.. When I asked the hotel bearer, he told me that the Shabarimala Swamiji's wouldn't come to this hotel if they knew that they served Non Veg food !. I was holding my laugher and couldn't feel more... (You guess it..). I was charged Rs.70/- for five slices of toast, 3 eggs and two glasses to milk.. This type to food is not so cheap here !. Its no doubt that 'Shabarimala Swamis' bring a lot of business here and so one can find good south Indian food here like Dosa, Edallies, Vadas etc. Not anything else..!@

After my breakfast I cycled towards 'Thekkedy Wildlife Reserve Forest'. Its about 4.5 KM and after 20 mins ride I reached there. There was a security check post were I had to take a pass/ticket (of Rs.2/-) and then the reserve forest started. It was quite beautiful and one can see many migratory birds here. Some great trees too. Its advisable to have a good binocular. My binocular was broken so I couldn't get a closer view.. Anyway it was good ride though the Thekkedy's reserve forest and on the way there were some facilities like Tourist info center, Library, novelty shops etc.

On reaching the Thekkedy boating gate. I parked my cycle in a safe place and lined up with others for a boating ticket.. Its Rs.40/- (lower deck) for a 2 hrs boating trip in the Thekkedy forest lake. Many were quite anxious to see some wildlife on the banks of the lake.. I got a ticket and got on one of the boat. The boat moved at a very slow speed (to give us a good look all around..). There were some good forests on either sides and tree skeleton remains standing in the middle of the lake was something quite beautiful. Birds were nested on top of them.. We were lucky to see some water autors, Elephants, birds and deer (this was not so clear as it was far away and the water wasn't deep enough for the boat to move closer. The lake was surrounded with small islands of jungle on either side ,that spread across a vast area. 

After the boat trip I decided to try the 3 hrs trek. This was conducted by forest officials. But it needed at least a small group (5 or so people). But I was all alone there and no one else was interested in it at that moment.. So I had to cancel it. There was another Trek that was about a day long (24-48 hrs trek) and it was called "The Periyar Tiger Trail". It was a "Environment/Nature Protection" oriented Adventurous Trekking and Camping program (a new Eco-tourism package). This was quite expensive and was oriented for foreigners or the rich class .Its cost, about $ 150 (about Rs.7000/-). I was told that it was worth the money and people who did it were quite appreciative of it. But I didn't have that kind of money to try it.. So I decided to be satisfied by just asking about the details of it.. This package was for serious nature lovers. The trek would be through tropical rainforests of Western Ghats (ie Periyar wildlife reserve forest). This trek promised to encounter rare and endangered Flora & Fauna, Tribals etc.. All of which, I will have to try sometime later, but not now. Anyway this is for a good cause as the money out of this program will be used for the protection of the 'Periyar' forest.

On my way back from the Thekkedy to Kumily, I decided to walk in the Thekkedy forest reserve. On the way (near the road side in the park) I saw few good statues of wild buffalo, dear, tiger etc. And I liked the statue of a "Tiger on Tree" (which was inside a small fence..). Under that statue was some good quotes/words that I think everyone should read it.. Those words shows how our lives are intricately tied with mother nature.. And few good words for humans who have forgotten their roots !..

There were some other facilities at the Periyar Tiger reserve like staying at the observation tower in the forest (across the river), bird watching, stay in Thekkedy forest itself. Which I didn't have time or money to try.. , maybe some time later. This day went good for me as I had seen Thekkedy forest for the first time !. And its a very good place to site and enjoy the natural beauty all around.

11-Jan-2002 :
My next destination was "Tenmalai" Eco tourism spot in Kollam (Quilon) district. I had to go via Kumily -- > Peermade --> Errumelli --> Ranni --> Pathanamthitta --> Konni --> Pathanapuram --> Punnalur --> Tenmalai. It was a long route, ie about more than 120 KM or so.

So I vacated my hotel at Kumily as soon as possible. Had my breakfast from hotel "MahaLekshmi" (one of the decent hotel in Kumily with some good Kerala food) and at about 8.40am I started my journey towards "Tenmalai" Eco tourism spot in Kollam. It was a long ride in the sun towards 'Errumelli' (this was the route I had to take..). There were some really steep climb uphill near Peermade. "Peermade" was a beautiful spot and a tourist attraction. I didn't find any tourist here but was a good spot that had small beautiful hills, valleys and some tea estates to offer.. After riding for about 3 hrs or so I had to take rest, as the sun was really hot and the slopes were getting tougher on me.. About 13 KM before Erumelli I had to take a left turn (across a bridge). I had to make sure that I was on the right route.. So I asked the direction as often as possible. That's why I didn't miss this turning. I covered almost 80 KM to reach 'Erumelli' at about 2.10 pm. Here I could see a lot of Shabarimala pilgrims, actually the whole city was covered and overwhelmed with these pilgrims and most of them looked as if they were walking for a hundred mile !.. There were a lot of rubber estates on the way and the roads went though villages.. The villagers here don't talk much but they are quite clever and are good listeners. The cycle ride through these roads was good but due to hot sun, by now I had some of my skin burned !. I took some rest in the shade here and had some snacks. I had skipped by lunch as I had to cover a long way.. 

I decided to halt at Pathanamthitta as I was tired and my in-law's house was here.. By now it was 5pm and I reached 'Vazhamuttom' (a small village in Pathanamthitta). There I stayed in my in-law's house, I was lucky to see my sister there.. (usually she stays in Mangalore.. She had come for a monthly visit). I had some good home made food. I eat lot and went for short walks with my sister around the village. I was tired and I went to bed early. Next day I planned to rest here (to recharge my energy) and then move on to 'Tenmalai' the day after. 

12-Jan-2002 :
This was a rest day at my in-law's house at Pathanamthitta. So I watched TV. After a while felt more energetic and wanted to move around.. (cycling for so long had made my body and mind quite energized and hyperactive..). So I decided to walk around the village. But my sister suggested that we go to a nearby place called "Anna-Kuzhy" (called "Elephant Camp"). Its here that the wild elephants that are caught in the nearby jungle are tamed and trained. So it was a good idea. We (also sister's husband 'Joe' came with us) went to Elephant Camp. We could see two baby elephants there. One of them was taking bath and the elephant man (Mahout) was helping him.. The baby elephant was very active and curious.. So he was touching everything around him. I went closer then he touched my feet, arms and was smelling my body !. Baby elephants are very good to play with and will not cause any harm. I couldn't resist to touch it too and took some photos with him.. It was a nice first time experience to touch a baby elephant and to be so close to it !. When we departed the Mahout requested for some tip.. So 'Joe' gave Rs.20 to him. There were few other visitors too there (but not many). Small kids enjoyed to play with the baby elephant.. After all exposing kids to animals, encourages understanding and love towards them and they no more fear it. So such experiences are very beneficial to kids. My sister was a bit frightened about the elephant attacking her.. But then when I got closer with the elephant then her fear turned into love and happiness :-)

We left the 'Elephant Camp' and did some shopping at "Konni" Market. Konni city is about 10 KM or so from Pathanamthitta. Pathanamthitta has a city too and some good shops too. Mostly Pathanamthitta has Mountains, Rubber estates, Paddy, Rivers and are mostly village area. Its very 'green' place and good for nature lovers too. People here are quite shy and placid. But very clever and understanding.. They tend to absorb a lot from listening to others and most villagers have this skill (just like the ones I came across near 'Errumelli', its near Kottayam) . Most people here are 'God fearing' and regularly go to church. Most are Christians.. Some even are hardcore 'Fanatic Christian' !. I myself don't like such compartmentalization of humans.. So I'm a non-religious human being and believe only in 'earthly things', honesty towards others AND respect life (yours and of others). Oh, were am I going.. Not towards a philosophical discussion here.. Just to make sure we walk on the 'right side' in life  :-) That's all.

In the evening we went to a nearby mountain and sat there for few moments. It was bit tough getting there but was worth it. The view from there was beautiful and in no time it was 6.30 pm and getting dark. So we turned back home and the day had been good enough !. Tomorrow I will be packing up to go to 'Tenmalai' (meaning Hills of honey, there are some good honey in these Hills !). 


13-Jan-2002 :
I woke up at 7.00 am (it had been a good sleep. Thanks to the cool, nice climate and fresh air of Pathanamthitta). I packed up and had my breakfast. Eat more because I had lost some weight by now and couldn't resist some nice home made food !. 'Tenmalai' is about 74 KM from here. So I said goodbye to everyone and my sister gave me her good wishes.. I had to go via Konni -- Punnalur route to Tenmalai. It was now 8.40 am. Soon after 'Konni' there is a city called "Pathanapuram". It has a small market here. Reached Punnalur at about 11.30 am (ie covered about 43 KM in less than 3 hrs). The road was good and flat so cycling was quite a pleasure.. But by now I had some skin burned on my 'rear- end' !.. and was a little difficult to sit on the seat properly.. I had to constantly shift my weight so that I wouldn't do more damage to my skin on my butt.. Anyway I soon had to forget everything and set my mind on reaching 'Tenmalai'. Some how I have developed a skill to forget everything (pain, fatigue, hunger etc) while cycling long distances..

After some cycling uphill and some sour comments from highway drivers (I had to absorb some bad comments from such chaps.. I opted to keep my mouth shut and be ready to bust their body parts... Luckily it didn't get worse because I was cool as a ice !. Thanks to my patience and tolerance). Anyway that's a part of such adventure, especially in these isolated parts were tourism have not caught up much.. So the people are a bit backward.. I reached 'Tenmalai Dear park' at about 2.10 pm. I didn't have time to see around here, So I just looked from outside and then asked the gatekeeper if there was any lodging or hotels to stay.. The answer that I got was an unexpected 'NO' !. After pedaling many steep slopes I had little energy to go any further.. Anyway I had to find a place to stay.. So I was told that at "Paluarruvi" (in 'Aryankavu') there was a hotel called "Motel Aram" and its owned by KTDC (ie Kerala Tourism Dev Corp). It was about 19 km away from Tenmalai at Aryankavu. On the way (just after Tenmalai Eco tourism office) I could see the Tenmalai dam and wonderful lake !. 

So I decided to slow down my cycling pace and started to look around.. I then saw the "Tenmalai Eco Tourism Park" office. I just got all required info from here and told them that it was a pity that there were no lodging available in Tenmalai !. They said that it will soon be made available there itself.. So I decided to stay at 'Paluarruvi' (in Aryankavu). After cycling through some great forests, bridge and small settlements I reached Aryankavu. There are some great forests at 'Aryankavu' and a good waterfalls (that's how 'Pal-arruvi' name comes from, meaning 'streams of milk'). Its nice to take bath here. The forest is good for some cool walks in isolation and can see some rare birds too here. There are some streams here. This lies on 'Schenkottah' route ( 'Schenkottah' is famous for 'Kurutallam Waterfalls', which 20KM away from here). Just before Aryankavu there is a very small railway station ie "Edapalayam Railway station". After a while I saw the 'Motel Aram' (which is just before a check post). I went in and got a double bed room for just Rs.160/-. Not much people come here so the rent was discounted for me !. The hotel was good but it was obvious that only few people come here, because when I got into the room, then it was as if the room was closed for more than 6 months or so !.. And the bucket in the bathroom had a small frog in it !, She was beautiful green frog in hibernation. Anyway the room was just perfect for me.. Later I found out that the food in the hotel was not good and was over priced. So I had my lunch from a small hotel just close to this hotel, (by now the time was about 4.00 pm !). After eating some good Tapioca curry with very tasty fish curry and fish fry.. I was quite content.. Now I asked the hotel owner, how much time it would need to see the 'Tenmalai Eco Tourism park' ?. He said 2-3 hrs would be enough.. So I got a public van (ticket was Rs.5/-) and went back to Tenmalai. I got a ticket from the Eco Tourism office for Adventure zone, Leisure zone and for Musical Fountain.. Actually this Park was divided into several zones and each needed separate tickets.. Anyway I got the tickets and by now it was about 4.40 pm or so. And I was told that at 5.30 pm the park would close.. !. So I had to hurry to towards the zones.. (these were at walkable distance from each other).

While walking towards the 'Adventure zone', I met a gentleman from France.. He was walking very slowly as if in no hurry at all !.. He was not a tourist.. Actually he was staying in India from last 24 yrs and lived by the rent that he got from a flat in France. He had a house at 'Pondicherry' and wife used to come to India too. His name was 'yes' !... You heard it right !, its 'Mr. YES'. He was a very thin old guy but with full of energy and appreciation for India and its culture.. He was a great nature lover, just like me (even more..). And understood its importance in our life.. We became good friends in just couple of minutes !, then and there.. He had taken bath in the lake and told me to try it.. Its worth it, he said. I said that I had to go to Adventure zone as it would close at 5.30 pm. We then departed. I told him that I was staying at 'Aryankavu' (ie near Paluarruvi). Wishing goodbye to each other, we never thought to see each other again.. but I was to be wrong..

I looked around the Adventure zone and did the stairway walk through trees !. This was a special attraction of the park, were there was a stairway made through the tree canopy. It also had some mountain biking, rock climbing and river crossing.. But I didn't do it because I had done a lot of these things before !.. so was not quite keen on these. I hurried up towards the "Leisure zone" and now the time was about 5.20 pm. In the Leisure zone I had a great walk through some nice pathway, that leads into small bushes and there were some good sculptures in between the trees. Some of the sculptures were wonderful with very imaginative captions.. One of them goes like this "People may meet in candle light, but it needs inner light to bring them closer..". Isn't this good ?. There were many such sculptures there. I sat on the steps and spent some time in just watching around and thinking about the world.. I am not a religious or philosophical person, so what I think is mostly about the world around us and Not about what I will do after going to heaven or what evils/sins I have done in my life.. This makes me a more realistic human being with strong bonds with nature and mother earth..

From this park I could also get a very closer view of the Tenmalai dam. By now it was dark and I decided to go back to the Eco Tourism office to see the "Musical Fountain" there (it would start at about 7.30 pm). As soon as I reached there, I could see a long line of people queued up for tickets for the Musical Fountain show. The Musical Fountain show was just great with some pop Hindi and Tamil music.. It was outdoor. The light effects were good and when the wind blew the water droplets fell on the audience.. This added spice to the show. After about half an hour the show ended and I was happy that I had at last seen most of Tenmalai's attractions. I got a mini van back to Aryankavu and there I had my dinner from the same hotel.. I came back to Motel Aram and rested. I was tired and also had to tend to my muscle cramps.. It wasn't much of a problem, but I was just cautious about it. So I had an bath and massaged with oil. This day was a good one as it was my last night and tomorrow I would see 'Palarruvi' and then turn back to 'Trivandrum' (my home !). And to put an end to this cycling tour !..

14-Jan-2002 :
I woke up at 8.00 am and decided to have my breakfast and hurry up to "Palarruvi waterfalls" which was about 4 KM away. I wanted to walk through the 'Aryankavu' forest instead of cycling.. But I did't have much time as I had to turn back to my home (Trivandrum) before 2.00 pm or so. I slowly cycled through the 'Aryankavu' forest and saw some very good forest, birds and streams.. In less than 25 mins I reached the "Palarruvi waterfalls". I had to park my cycle few meters down hill as there were no road ahead. So I safely hid my 'green runner' (my dear cycle) between the rocks and walked up towards the waterfalls. It was a wonderful waterfall..!. About 30 mts fall and with clear white water coming down the mountain. I wanted to take a bath but there were some people in it.. So I decided to just watch and then go back.. I then took some rest and cycled back to the hotel to do my packing.. 

As I entered the hotel I was surprised to see 'Mr. Yes' (the same French guy I met yesterday..).!. He was also amazed to see me too. After all this was the only hotel/lodge in this place , so it was understandable to see each other in the same hotel. He told me that he had come yesterday night and was planning to see around Aryankavu today.. I told him that I just now had went to "Palarruvi waterfalls" and told him about the route.. We sat in my hotel room and chatted.. I was packing up my bag and he saw my 'Nunchaku' (a weapon used in Martial Art..). He really liked it and was very interested in Martial Arts like me !. Actually he too had a 'Nanchak' with him.. He showed it to me and we began to exchange some tips about martial arts. He was good in "Tai-Chi Chuan" and a bit of Karate. His was mostly slow moving Tai-Chi forms.. This was very effective though. I also showed some of the Karate and Muay Thai moves.. It was just amazing how we both had the same interests and also carried the same weapons !. He asked me if it was necessary to carry a weapon here or to be so alert.. ?.. and why I kept it..?. I told him that in some places you need to be a bit alert and prepared.. And as this place being closer to TamilNadu border and who knows, crooks are everywhere. I told, ones life was too precious to loose and so why not take some precaution and to be a bit alert.. Not sure if he agreed with me or not but we then talked more about each other.

He then asked me to come with him to "Palarruvi waterfalls" (just for company..). I couldn't refuse as I also wanted to take bath there. He also liked to be alone in nature and didn't like anyone around. He was more spiritual than me and he said that there were very few places in India that one could be all alone.. I agreed with his viewpoint. I took my cycle and he sat behind and We cycled towards "Palarruvi waterfalls". On the way there were some slopes and I decided to walk, he was glad to give me a helping hand by giving a hand to my cycle.. On the way we saw some people cutting trees and loading onto trucks. We then started to talk about deforestation and how forests were important for this Earth.. I asked him a question, ie "How does waterfall happen on these mountains?. Because if there were some water pool above then it should be visible..?". He said that actually the water from the rains percolates into the rocks and then it slowly oozes through the rocks/ground to become streams and it falls down cliffs/slopes as 'waterfall'. And its the trees that help in this percolation process. Also helps to prevent soil erosion (without good porous soil and trees to hold them, there could be large flash floods and landslides !). At last he helped me refresh my memory about these small but important things..

We reached "Palarruvi waterfalls" and decided to go climb up the mountain from were this waterfalls started.. So we climbed some really steep slope and crawled under bushes to reach a point were there was no more route/path to reach to top of the mountain.. So we took a right turn and came to the edge of the mountain (cliff) from where the Palarruvi waterfalls was just few meters away and we were almost on top of it !. We sat there comfortably in the bushes and it was a serene view from top. We could see almost whole to Aryankavu's northern side from here.. We both allowed ourselves a few minutes of silence.. Those moments couldn't be expressed.. 

Then we talked.. I asked what he had on his wrist (it looked like a wrist band, pink color...). He replied that it was an identification for "Amma's" disciples ("Matha AmrithaNand Maye" is a great spiritual figure here. So I wasn't surprised). He too was a spiritual person and enjoyed to learn more about it.. Then I asked him few questions like I said, "Are you a religious or a spiritual person and why ?". For this he replied that he surely was a spiritual being and 'religion' was just an lower level of existence where many get lost or misled. But being 'spiritual' and to know yourself, nature etc was the ultimate goal ("Ultimate Truth"). Such person would become a truly enlighten being in harmony with 'all' !'.. For this he really praised our Indian culture, Society, Tradition and Spiritual figures like "Amma". I asked,  "How you were attracted to 'Amma' ?", He said that her smile was something special and not all could give such a smile !.. She smiles truthfully and whole heartedly.. Its just unconditional love.. I then too give Mr.Yes a good smile for this answer.. I asked him if he liked French people and their culture..?. He said that very few were interested in spiritual bonds (bonds with nature, people and oneself). Then he said that Indian culture/people should lead the way for rest of the world to spread such spiritual qualities like kindness, tolerance and understanding. Its better to absorb everything (all bad things that happens to you and around you), Its a spiritual quality that very few in the west have.. I agreed with his view points. Then I asked him what he thought about persons like me (adventurer, green guys), who (I) don't believe in 'God' or superstitions etc ?. He said that adventurers are in fact spiritual persons because they 'go behind & beyond things'.. Where a normal person wouldn't (or would have fear to do so). This is an important quality to understand the 'real' things (truth) in life and to know what is right. Such persons always try to know more and understand better with an open mind. I agreed with him absolutely because we see many so called 'religious' figures and I find one worse than the other..!. So why not take a different approach to life and see life through the eyes of an 'Adventurer' and to learn oneself by experience.. (just like I do..). All these answers from him put me on a peculiar position were I couldn't argue with him on any of his views, as we had similar facts to share and both tend to know each other's thoughts.. Maybe it was this sort of understanding that brought both of us closer to become friends and in this surreal place..

We then decided to get down of the mountain and have a bath under the waterfalls. We changed our dress and swam in the pool just under the waterfalls. The water was cold but very refreshing and soothing !. I lay under the waterfalls for few minutes. After 15 mins or so we came out of it and changed dress. Mr. Yes started to do some 'Tai Chi' exercises and seemed to be quite rejuvenated !. Actually he was very energetic and he didn't like to sit.. (always moved around !). Then he said that he would go back walking through the AryanKavu forest.. So we departed and I went back on my cycle to the hotel and vacated the room. Now time was about 2.30pm and I had to reach home (Trivandrum). My route back home was "Tenmalai --> Kulathupuzha --> Palod --> Nedumangad ---> Trivandrum city". I reached home at 8.50pm. This ended by 10 days cycling tour of Kerala and I could cover about 850 KM or so in these many days !. I had achieved what I though of  :-) , I got more than what I wished for !..

You can read this news letter online at :  cycling

Regards,
Jimmy George --Webmaster Coolshack.com     

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